Second day in Yemen (Ramadan beings) and Qat: My experience and perspective

Note: This was written on August 12 and is describing events from August 11.

I started my day much earlier than I had planned, around 7 am, after getting only about three hours of sleep. I just couldn't fall back asleep and felt surprisingly refreshed upon arising. I then finished unpacking all my clothes and other things and ate some breakfast. After doing some more things around my apartment, I ventured outside for another long walk. It was great to finally have a chance to walk around during the daylight. Things look much different when you can actually see them! It didn't rain at all today and was probably in the low 80s most of the day. I walked for about 3 1/2 hours, stopping along the way to take pictures, make some purchases (including two awesome throw rugs that together only cost me about 1400 rials, which is about $5.83 - and one of them is probably five feet by 3 1/2 feet!), attempt to speak Arabic with people, and make some new friends.

Little kids love to have their pictures taken and I had at least 10 small children ask me to take their picture, one time a group of about 5 even ran up a hill to ask me. I walked to the far Eastern (?) edge of Sana'a, which is on a hillside and had a neat bird's eye view of the city, very cool. I also walked through more of the souk (market) and ended up making some friends there. At one point I was surrounded by a group of men and young boys who were interested in me and were listening to the "conversation" I was having with one of the men in the group. He was very friendly and thought it is awesome that I will be in Sana'a for two years. I told him I hope to see him at that souk again (though I probably won't ever give him any business: he sells/butchers chickens :-(.

Another highlight was shortly after this when a man approached me and asked if I needed any help. I didn't really, but could feel a bathroom visit coming on and decided to be proactive and asked him where I could find a bathroom. He then told me to walk with him and soon pointed to a mosque and said I could go in there. I told him "Are you sure I can go in there? I don't think I can." Yahyia - I later learned was his name - assured me I was fine if he accompanied me inside. So I walked through the gates and then removed my shoes/socks before walking in. When first walking into the bathroom/washing side there is a pool of water that you walk through and then go into a large room that splits off into the bathroom stalls and the washing area. Being the only white person in there (which is a pretty common experience in Sana'a) and likely the only non-Muslim, I got quite a few looks. I just found it fascinating to have the opportunity to enter a mosque and see what it is like inside. I considered this a rare opportunity, given the fact that non-Muslims are technically not allowed inside. Around this time I was beginning to become quite tired, due partly from the fact that I had walked several miles and also that I had not eaten or drank anything since leaving my apartment. The reason I had not eaten or drank is that Ramadan started today and during this holiday Muslims abstain from eating or drinking anything (or having sex) during the daylight hours and it is considered rude to eat or drink in front of them. Because Sana'a is a large city with many inhabitants, it is rare to find a place to do this in private, so I just joined the club (until I got home).

Later that day: the evening

I went walking around again last night and took in some of the festive atmosphere that Ramadan brings with it. It is so interesting how opposite the days are compared to the nights during this time. In the daytime there is very little activity and many stores that are normally open are not, which makes sense because a restaurant/eating establishment wouldn't expect to get much business when everyone is fasting. Then during the evening things go back to normal but with an even greater increase in activity and an overall lively spirit. Lots of people all around, qat sessions everywhere, food vendors all over the place, and a general feeling of happiness. I ended up meeting and talking with a bunch of people once again. I was invited to a qat session, got my first Yemeni motorcycle ride (pretty similar to my China experience!), had opportunities to practice my spoken Arabic, bought some raisins & walnuts and a English-Arabic book, and continued to fall in love.

Qat: My experience and perspective

Regarding qat, it is honestly the single easiest way to meet people and be accepted here and is not as addictive as it may sound. Think of it more like a strong coffee type feeling, with a bit more heightened sense of awareness and minus the jitteriness. I have also found it to be an excellent way to practice Arabic, as it gives me an opportunity to sit with locals and ask questions about things and learn new words in the process. In the afternoons and especially in the evenings, it is almost impossible to walk fifteen feet on a given street in Sana’a and not see someone chewing qat. Young men, old men, even small children chew this plant and sometimes get such a huge wad in their cheek that it looks as if they have several golf balls in their mouth. Although one does not see women chewing in public, they do also chew qat but do so behind the privacy of closed doors. During Ramadan, keeping in line with the rules about fasting, Yemenis abstain from qat until after iftar each day. But then the party is on and it seems some feel the need to make up for lost time from earlier in the day. Anytime that Yemenis see me chewing qat I have people ask me if I like it and why I am doing it, but more commonly I just get people who seem to love the fact that a white foreigner is partaking in their beloved qat. The main effects qat has on a person, besides the aforementioned feelings of euphoria, renewed energy, and alleviation of fatigue, is that it significantly suppresses the appetite, increases thirst, and in long term can lead to constipation and other negative side effects. Because of the increase in energy and alertness, chewing qat can make sleep difficult (at least for beginners, I am told by my Yemeni friends), which means it did not help me overcome my jet lag very well.

Overall I decided that chewing qat is like most things: okay in moderation and when done occasionally but a problem when it becomes a habitual activity, which unfortunately is what it is for most users in Yemen. Perhaps the worst impact qat has, in addition to the effects on its users, is on Yemen’s dwindling water supply. Qat requires a considerable amount of water to properly cultivate, which is a huge problem in Yemen because of their limited supply (their water table is much lower than other parts of the world). In addition to this, the demand for qat is so high that far more land is used for cultivating it than is for consumable produce that could help feed the population of Yemen. Unfortunately this problem is not going away and I have heard estimates that their water supply could be completely used up within the a decade. I have heard many different figures - from anywhere between 5 and 20 years - but regardless of the eventual end it is clear that Yemen is facing a very real water crisis. In the end I have decided that I may chew qat in the future, but if I do it will be something that happens once or twice per month. This will not only keep it as a fresh and interesting thing to do, but will also minimize my involvement with it and its profound impact on Yemen’s natural resources. By choosing to limit my involvement I feel I am avoiding becoming a major part of the problem. It is very interesting that one plant could have such a strong grip on a society.