I mentioned in my previous post that holidays and celebrations “mark a period of time when the human spirit seems most alive and vitalized. Emotions run the full gamut of possibilities, sensory input and stimulation are at all time highs, and the usual problems of life seem to melt away as people embrace the opportunity to relax and enjoy life perhaps more than usual.” I feel this description adequately encapsulates the month of Ramadan and is why I have chosen to quote myself rather than try to illustrate it differently. Now that I have experienced Yemen apart from Ramadan I feel I have a better understanding not only of Yemeni life, but also the significance of Ramadan on it. The difference is really like night and day, which is a natural play on words, given that these two facets of time literally switch places during the month of Ramadan. I saw this very clearly the first day after Ramadan, which is also the beginning of Eid ul-Fitr, a three day Muslim holiday that marks the end of Ramadan, as I walked to meet some friends I was joining to go to Kamaran Island. Before this morning I had seen very little or no activity at 7:00 in the morning, but on the first day of Eid I was dumbstruck to find the streets very active with both pedestrian and motor traffic. I had not expected the change to be so rapid and altogether contrastive of my time in Yemen thus far. Making this morning all the more interesting is the tradition of wearing new clothes on Eid. So here I walked around Sana’a surrounded by Yemeni children wearing brand new (and stylish) clothing ranging from suits for the boys to decorative and colorful dresses for the girls.
As interesting as Eid is, however, I feel I have lost my original focus for this post, which is to explore the ‘sights, sounds, smells, and tastes of Ramadan.’ There is certainly much to experience and take in during Ramadan and this narrative will offer only a glimpse of what it is really like. Truly, as the case is with most things in life, the best way to understand Ramadan is to experience it personally. For those unable to do so, however, I hope my delineation is sufficient.
Perhaps the first thing that one notices about Ramadan during a given day is the relative lack of activity that occurs until the mid to late afternoon. I have mentioned this several times in previous posts and do so again here because of how apparent it is. I have heard Sana’a before Iftar described as a ‘ghost town’ and it indeed does resemble a city devoid of life for several hours in the early part of each day. This is of great benefit for commuting and getting to and from places, but can be rather frustrating when trying to shop, exchange money, or anything else one might normally do during the day. Nevertheless, one gets used to the pace and adjusts rather quickly (or doesn’t and spends much time complaining!). Another thing that is noticeable is the lack of businesses that are open during the day, especially food establishments. This makes sense considering that everyone, save for the foreigners and non-Muslims, is fasting and would therefore not make very good customers. Even early in the day, however, there are vegetable and fruit stands in operation and these sellers will even offer samples if you are a foreigner. This can be a somewhat confusing situation given that it the general guideline to abstain from drinking or eating in public until after Iftar. I usually just declined these generous offers and make my purchases anyway. The other food items that are sold early in the day are simbosa and falafel. Simbosa is a traditional Ramadan food that consists of a small pastry stuffed with either cheese or meat and then deep fried, while falafel is a famous Middle Eastern food made from ground chickpeas and spices that is also fried. The reason these are sold early is that they are food items that are to be given to those who cannot afford to buy food for Iftar and are bought by individuals to leave inside the mosques. Being a Vegan I obviously did not try simbosa, though I have heard it is delicious, but I did partake of the falafel, which is as good as any falafel I have ever had.
As the day progresses the level of activity correspondingly increases, hitting a peak in the interval between 5:30 and 6:30. This stretch is characterized by wild traffic, short tempered individuals, and an overall atmosphere of excitement. The main reason for the short tempers is because it is the point in the day when everyone has been fasting the longest, which also means that blood sugar levels are the lowest and everyone is eager to get to their respective Iftar. This in turn creates more chaotic traffic than usual, which is already pretty chaotic. Generally it is best to avoid being on the roads during this time if possible. Also seen during this time is people making last minute purchases for their Iftar meals. Bakeries are especially busy selling pita bread, loaves, and other specialty items, many of which (primarily specific sweets) are available only during Ramadan. Men begin to seek out qat in the late afternoon as well, ensuring they will be able to start chewing promptly after the Allah'u'Akbar, the daily call to prayer that signifies the end of the fast. During this time the smell of food being prepared for Iftar also begins to permeate the air providing a wonderful dose of aromatherapy for the city.
The closer the time gets to 6:30, which is roughly the time that the fast is broken each day, the traffic and activity on the roads does begin to slow down. As the time for Iftar draws near most businesses, apart from restaurants, close up shop for an hour or two to enjoy the evening meal. It is interesting to walk around during this time and peer into the shops to see people huddled on the floor around plates of food as they await the cannon that signifies the end of the fast. It is like this on the streets too, with people huddled around platters of foods in doorways, alleys, and on the sidewalks. Even the guards on duty in front of the various governmental buildings have someone bring them food and commune together at their respective posts. The sense of community that is characteristic of Ramadan is seen very clearly in the time leading up to the Allah'u'Akbar. Also characterizing this time just before Iftar is the evening call to prayer that can be heard throughout the city, as can all the daily calls to prayer, on loudspeakers broadcasting from various mosques. This is an idiosyncratic sound of Muslim countries and something that one grows accustomed to quickly. As the call to prayer continues on and the last few moments before Iftar, the sense of anticipation is so strong in the air it could practically be bottled and sold. Just as the suspense reaches an all time high, the canon is fired and the fast ends for the day. Immediately almost everyone begins to feast on their Iftar meals, which are traditionally begun with the eating of dates, while the more dutiful Muslims eat only a date and then excuse themselves for more prayer before eating.
Once everyone has ingested some food and raised their blood sugar levels, a whole new sense of energy can be felt in the air. After a short time the streets begin to fill again, becoming especially busy with foot traffic as people use their renewed energy to walk about. Gradually businesses begin to open again (some starting up for the first time of the day!) and a general sense of merriment is shared by all. Additionally starting at this time is the qat chewing, which I predict some men have looked forward to more than eating throughout the day. Shortly after this it is not uncommon to see men with cheeks that appear to be concealing golf balls and in some cases billiard balls. Yemenis truly do love their qat!
The sounds that characterize the evenings of Ramadan, at least those that stick out to me, mostly involve children in various forms of play. Tahrir Square, which is a mere 8 minute walk from my apartment, teems with children riding motor scooters and small ATVs. While this appears fun and innocent to these children, many are far too young to be riding solo and as a result it is not uncommon to see some crash their motorized transports. Fortunately I have not personally seen anyone get hurt, but I have seen crashes and many more ‘near’ crashes. The collective sound of all the 100cc motors being revved is somewhat like an amped up swarm of mosquitos and, at least in my opinion, grows old quickly. Fireworks, namely bottle rockets and standard firecrackers, are also a common sound as children light and throw them with little regard for their surroundings. Indeed, I have been surprised numerous times while walking by the sound of firecrackers exploding very near to me, sometimes practically under my feet! While the fireworks can be heard throughout the day, it is not until the evening that their prominence becomes especially noticeable. Other play activities include Foosball, with tables frequently set up curbside along streets, and its more active cousin soccer, though soccer is more commonly seen in the early mornings during Ramadan being played in the middle of streets.
As a result of being gainfully employed in Yemen and working during Ramadan, I had to retire to bed long before the evening festivities associated with Ramadan expired. The only real downside to this is that while I may be ending my day and seeking sleep, the rest of the city is hours from this as well as the accompanying sounds. This means I was nightly lullabied by all the sounds described above as well as the occasional barking dogs and fighting cats. This made sleep a bit elusive at times, but thankfully my great friends and coworkers, Derek & Lisa, had several extra pairs of ear plugs which they generously gave me. This not only safeguarded me from much of the sounds of Ramadan’s evenings, but also from the even more troublesome 3:30am call to prayer that, without fail, usually wakes me up. Since receiving these earplugs my quality of sleep has increased significantly.
As I mentioned earlier in this post, my account of Ramadan is not exhaustive or inclusive of all that is to be experienced in this great celebratory time. Clearly the best way to understand Ramadan is to experience it personally, which I hope all of you are able to do at some point in your life. It is unlike any other time I have ever been a part of and something I look forward to experiencing again next year. As for now, I am enjoying the opportunity to experience Yemen in its normal pace of life and adjusting to this. I hope all enjoyed this narrative and can think of no better way to close this particular post than by wishing all “Ramadan Kareem.”
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